Sierra Nevada Hounds (SNH) was organized in Reno, Nevada in the Autumn of 2022 as a farmers pack. Our founding Master and President took in approximately 10 couple hounds from other packs and various members took the recent puppy litters. In Spring of 2023, Masters Jerry and Raina were brought in to provide a permanent home for our hounds and as a huntsman for the newly created pack. Seeking recognition with the Masters of the Foxhounds Association of North America (MFHA), SNH registered hunt country around the kennel and in nearby federal lands. The hunt took its name from the nearby Sierra Nevada range to the west of the hunting territory. SNH is seeking recognition with MFHA and is pending approval.

The coyote is always the star of the show. Our sport comes mainly from the chase. Most followers cheer-on the hounds, but they secretly root for the quarry. Viewing a hunted coyote is one of the great thrills of sporting life. The bitch coyote tend to run in very large, irregular circles, avoiding hounds by stealth and cunning or by going to ground (down a hole) and the dog coyote run more straight. Of course during the height of their breeding season, there’s no telling what might happen!

Killing quarry is not a hunt objective. Sierra Nevada Hounds has adopted the principles of humane non-lethal predator control, meaning it is a “no kill” hunt.  Humane control is based on the idea that predator and prey animals rightly exist in an ecological balance, and that humans, domestic animals, and wildlife can and should co-exist. This balance relies in part on predators’ natural fear of humans.  Urban and rural coyotes are becoming increasingly bold in the presence of humans.  Rather than killing them, reinforcing their fear of humans is an effective alternative for managing the predator threat.  Riding through open land with hounds has proven an effective and harmless deterrent. 

The main purpose of even mounting a horse on any particular hunting day is to follow hounds, either to watch them work or to listen to their music. The main purpose of the hunt organization, dues, and fundraising is to support the everyday care, feeding, breeding, and training of these great animals. In the off-season, one can get involved in the raising, exercising, training, and support of our hounds. SNH presently maintains about 20 couple (40 individuals) of entered (hunting) hounds.

We are blessed with the opportunity to hunt federally owned land. About 80% of Nevada is public lands and is considered open for hunting and sporting year round. We work closely with Nevada Department of Wildlife to make sure we are hunting within the regulations set by the state for coyotes. Our aim at SNH is to be a confident, competent and ethical hunting organization.

Sierra Nevada Hounds Foundation is an organization formed to preserve and promote the art and sport of riding to hounds, educate about mounted foxhunting, maintain a pack of hounds, conserve public lands, promote amateur and youth athletics, and support charitable purposes.

Huntsman

The Huntsman is the person in charge of hunting the hounds on any particular day. They determines the day’s strategy, instructs the Whippers-In, leads the pack to covert, puts them in, encourages them, helps them, if necessary, rates (disciplines) them if they riot (chase something they shouldn’t), and generally commands the actual hunting. The Huntsman uses the horn to communicate with hounds, Whippers-In, and the field.

Whippers-In

Whippers-In (vulgar shorthand: ‘Whip’) are the hunt staff responsible for assisting the Huntsman in controlling hounds, keeping hounds with the pack, and scouting ahead during the hunt. They will be positioned tactically to calmly view a coyote going away, then burst into action to maintain their tactical position or to keep hounds from chasing something they shouldn’t. They may also be positioned to keep hounds away from a busy road, a distraction, or forbidden land. They signal the Huntsman, by hollering, of a view (good) or riot (bad). They must be continually aware of the pack’s activity, and they must determine where next to position themselves. Therefore, they must know their way around and be skilled enough and well mounted enough to get there on their own. They note which hounds are doing what on a run. They break hounds off a heel line, a false line, riot, or highway; they bring separated hounds back to the pack; and they gather stray hounds at the end of the day. They know the hounds by name, and they know their faults and talents. They are skilled in using their hunt whips and voices to accomplish their duties.

Honorary Secretary

This sweet-talking, but persistent individual is responsible for assuring that all mounted followers have paid their dues or caps and have signed waivers.

Field Master

One person will be put in charge of each mounted field of riders. He or she is responsible primarily for controlling the mounted riders and for protecting the landowners’ property and livestock. Each Field Master will lead their field with the goals of getting around efficiently, safely, and with a good view of hounds and staff at work. A Field Master will have experience, know the country, know what hunting with hounds is about, and, if necessary, be able to discipline the field. All riders must stay with and obey their Field Master. Talking or chatting to the field master should wait till either the beginning or end of the day unless there is a real need to relay an issue or problem. It takes a lot of concentration and some knowledge of both the hunt territory and foxhunting to navigate a field of riders in a way that they can view hounds but stay far enough away from the huntsman so as not to interfere with hunting.

First Flight, First Field, or Fast Field

They are well-mounted and skilled enough to go where the chase takes them. They must be able to jump reliably and stay with the Field Master. Their goal is to keep up with the hounds and Huntsman, especially on a chase. Any follower who cannot keep up should move to the second flight.

Second Flight, Second Field, or Non-Jumping Field

SNH’s second flight is a non-jumping group that follows the first flight and may move as far and fast as the first flight if terrain and gates allow. Some horses and riders may be green, older, or recovering from injury and are unable to jump the panels in our territory. Riders are expected to open and close their share of gates (injury, inability, and sidesaddles excepted).

Third Flight, Third Field, or Hilltoppers

SNH when necessary has a separate hilltopping field. Hilltoppers are riders who move at a walk or trot between strategic positions to watch the action from a distance, perhaps from a hilltop. They avoid interference with the coyote, the hounds, and the first and second fields.

Car Followers

Non-mounted followers often see more wild animals than mounted followers do, and they are usually able to hear the music of the hounds just as well. Many meets include folks in 4WD vehicles parked at good vantage points, taking in the spectacle of the hunt while enjoying easy access to refreshments and shelter. Car followers must have the permission of a Master. Any driver who is not intimately familiar with the roads, tracks, and pastures we are allowed to use must stay with someone who does. Gate closing and respect for landowner’s property and livestock is every bit as important for car followers as it is for the mounted followers.

General

Foxhunting attire is steeped in tradition and most items are worn for practicality as well as keeping with the traditions of our sport. In saying this, we also understand the deep dive that a new to foxhunting individual will be making as they begin to acquire the outfits. There are some items that are more negotiable than others and usually there are workarounds to keep costs reasonable. When in doubt, ask the Honorary Secretary about which items are the highest priority. Additionally, other hunt members have been in your boat and they often have a variety of creative solutions for finding off-brand or used items.

Sunglasses are highly encouraged! Snow blindness is a very real concern. Please protect your eyes. We need them in case you tally ho a coyote!

Jewelry - Don’t wear anything that you are not prepared to lose or damage - Please keep bling to a minimum.

Gloves are encouraged but not required - leather or string. Color coordinated with the color of your coat. Black for black coats, navy for navy coats, etc.

Radio lanyard - The SNH lanyards are encouraged.

Buttons on hunt coats: There is a complicated tradition on the number of buttons on hunt coats that have become outdated in this day of buying coats on consignment

Three buttons are traditional for hunt members who are not masters, huntsmen, or professional staff, however, this button rule will not be enforced by SNH.

Belt - If your breeches have belt loops you should properly wear a belt, plain leather belts can be used as an emergency stirrup leather or as a sling. Black, brown, or matched to your breeches.

Helmets - Black or matched to your coat are encouraged, Velvet-covered is traditional, Hairnets or show bows to contain any flyaway hair (ladies or gentlemen), please keep logos or bling on the surface of the helmet to a minimum, Juniors must wear an approved ASTM riding helmet at all times while mounted.

Red and any variation of red for shirts and jackets is reserved for staff only no matter the season.

Bling and bright colors are a lot of fun outside of hunting. Please be reminded that bright colors and bling have a time and place, but that time and place is not the hunt field.

Cubbing

Polo shirts or shirts with a collar - SNH polo or colors encouraged (i.e. sky blue, tan, white, etc)

Tan or Rust or earth tones such as grey, olive and brown breeches and denim allowed. Bright colors are not appropriate.

English or Western boots allowed

Informal English

Tweed coats in any muted color

Stock ties - Informal is the time for fun colors! Shaped or four-fold cuts.

Stock pin (steel-shanked is better for safety reasons but not required)

Riding shirts - white or butter yellow are both traditional, pastels or color coordinated with your tweed are acceptable. Bright colors are not appropriate.

Tattersall or lightly patterned. SNH has a fun canvas vest that can be worn under tweeds or when coats are waived.

Breeches - Traditional tan, buff, canary, earth tones such as olive, brown, navy, grey, or rust. Bright colors are not appropriate.

Field Boots - English-style boots, traditional is brown or black boots with laces.

Formal English

Ladies and Gentlemen English Hunt coats in black, either melton or frock cut, weight suitable for the weather.

Stock ties - White, with or without muted patterns, Shaped or four-fold cuts, Stock pin (steel-shanked is better for safety reasons but not required)

Riding shirts - white or butter yellow, Canary Vests or waistcoats are traditional (but not required)

Breeches - tan, beige, or canary.

Dress Boots - English-style riding boots, black without laces.

Juniors

Same as above for Ladies or Gentlemen Without Colors except ASTM-approved helmet must be worn at all times while mounted.

Juniors under the age of 14 who want to follow traditional attire:

If long hair, plait it into two braids to hang down the back, with bows at the ends.

Tweed coat - Juniors are always correct in tweed for the whole season no matter the attire for adults.

White Turtleneck shirt (no need for a stock tie or stock pin).

Canary yellow waistcoat or vest recommended.

Vests or waistcoats are traditional - Informal is the time for fun colors!

Tan breeches with stirrup loops at the bottom.

Leather garter belts under knees.

English-style Paddock boots, black or brown, with breeches over the tops and stirrup loops around the arches.

Colors

Colors for adults, differences from formal.

Black or Navy Hunt Coats - Tan collar with two braids of sky blue (one light and one dark)

Breeches - Same as Formal unless wearing a navy coat and boot tops then white (Gentlemen) or butter yellow (Ladies) is also correct.

Boots same as formal with patent leather tops for ladies, brown top boots for gentlemen.

Colors for Juniors

Hunt Coat Collar - Colors for those under the age of 18 are reversed from adult colors, sky blue collars and a braid of tan, do not sew Junior colors on a tweed coat.

*Once Juniors become 18, then they can switch to adult colors on their collars - And there will be a party to celebrate this!

Scarlets

Staff are awarded scarlet by the Masters.

Scarlet frock coats are only to be worn by those who are riding as staff that day.

The colors of the hunt are to be sewn on the collars if awarded.

If a staff member is not riding as staff that day, then they cannot wear scarlet that day.

White breeches.

Brown top dress boots.

The rest of the attire is the same as for members with colors, at the discretion of the Masters.

Guests

Guests who do not have their colors with another hunt - The dress code is the same for members without their colors - see above.

Guests who have their colors with another hunt - All guests who wish to ride with their colors on their collars must ask for permission – ask the Honorary Secretary before you leave to visit us!

Guests must be in good standing with their home hunt to be allowed to wear their colors.

In the unlikely event of being denied, be ready to hunt in a plain black coat.

No guests will be allowed to ride in the field while wearing scarlet, as scarlet is reserved for staff only.

If guests do not have a plain black coat to wear, ask the Honorary Secretary to see if one can be borrowed.

Western

Cowboy hat or ASTM approved helmets in black or brown.

Blazer - Black or tweed, to match the attire of the rest of the field.

Button-up, collared shirt with neck tie or string tie.

Black or tan pants, pressed (please no denim).

Western boots.

Brown or black leather tack.

Please keep loud colors and bling to a minimum, no red.

What to Wear When

“Colors” should not be worn unless invited by a Master to do so. Formal hunting attire is always proper and is never considered over-dressed. Formal hunting attire will be worn at weekend, holiday, and joint meets. Informal attire is acceptable for other weekday meets and for autumn hunting. Shadbellies are acceptable on high-holy days.

The Stock Tie

The stock tie is a very useful part of a foxhunter’s kit. It can be used as a bandage, sling, tourniquet, headlight reflector when hung behind at night, etc. Place the midpoint just below your Adam’s apple. Run both sides around the back of your neck, to the front. For a slotted tie, run one side through the slot; for an unslotted tie, twist one side near the crossing point so it runs flat against your neck. Tie a square knot, but not too tight. Cross the ends and arrange everything neatly to cover most of your shirt front that is not covered by the waistcoat. Keep this work of art in place by inserting a large, plain, gold-colored safety pin horizontally through both sides and the shirt, just below the knot. Pin the flapping ends to your shirt unobtrusively.

Horses Attire - Tack and Appointments - Hunting Tack

Hunting tack is not fancy. Bridles should be flat leather without embellished stitching. A breastplate is recommended to help keep your saddle from slipping backwards going cross country. Standing martingales are not acceptable.

Keep tack clean, simple, and in good repair. Snaffle, pelham, and double bridles with a simple caveson are traditional, but use whatever it takes to control your horse, figure 8 or drop nosebands, gags, etc. Relying on the circling technique to stop a horse creates a distraction and, more significantly, poses a danger to others. Braided, laced or rubber reins give you a better grip when your horse sweats, or it rains. Colored or ornamental brow bands are not acceptable.

Jumping, all-purpose and cross-country saddles are well suited for the type of country over which we ride. Make sure the saddle fits the horse, several hours of hunting in an ill-fitting saddle are certain to produce a sore back. Saddle pads should be contoured and should be conservative in color traditionally white. Please no bright colors, jungle motifs, etc.

If you need extra leg protection, use leather or neoprene boots with either buckles or Velcro closings. If you use bell boots, use the ribbed pull-on boots. The ones with the Velcro closings don’t stay on very well for hunting. No polo wraps, they are extremely dangerous if they come loose while galloping across country.

All tack and appointments must be as clean as possible for the start of each hunt.

External holders for flasks, radios, wire cutters, and sandwich cases are all allowed on saddles.

Hunt whips with thongs are allowed, but no member is allowed to crack their whips without express wishes of the Huntsman (which is rarely given to non-staff members).

Condition and Grooming

All horses must be suitable for the skills of the rider.

The horse should be physically sound and adequately fit for an outing of several hours. The horse has to be quiet, sensible, stand quietly, not kick other horses or hounds, and make his way across country safely in a group of horses. He must not panic in mud or underbrush. A big bonus would be very comfortable gaits that you can ride for hours.

Your horse should be well groomed and trimmed with his mane pulled neatly. In the winter, it is a good idea to body clip him. If you plan to do anything more than quietly hilltop, you should have him shod.

Braiding Manes

It is correct to braid manes for formal days such as Opening Meet and Blessing of the Hounds. It is also proper, although not required, to braid for joint meets. If a horse’s mane is braided, it should be done neatly. An unbraided mane that is nicely trimmed is preferable to a poorly done braiding job.

“Coats Waived” in hot weather.

Be prepared for the hot weather to have Masters waive the wearing of coats for members. Always bring a long-sleeved riding shirt to the meet to change into if coats are waived and you had planned to wear sleeveless / short-sleeved. Always bring a vest or waistcoat to hide the ends of your stock tie if coats are waived. Pin the tail ends of your stock tie to your shirt to keep your stock tie from looking untidy and “flappy” if you do not have a vest to wear. You may use the SNH canvas vest when coats are waived.

“Coats Waived” in blizzard weather.

Black ski coats can be substituted for hunt coats if the member wishes for a warmer coat. Please keep bling and bright colors to a minimum, no red unless you are on staff. There are certain hacks that can help your hunt coat to keep you warmer in our high desert winters, just ask your Honorary Secretary for advice!

Before Moving Off

At the meet say good morning to all the Masters and the Honorary Secretary and remember to always introduce guests. The Masters like to know who is out on any given day. However, the Master, Huntsman and staff are extremely busy getting things organized and planning the hunt in order to give you the best sport and the most fun. Please do them the courtesy of a friendly “Good Morning/Afternoon,” but do not attempt to engage them in conversation at this time. They will be more than happy to visit with you concerning your thoughts and reflections on the day’s sport after the hunt and after horses and hounds are safely in their trailer.

Right-of-Way

The Huntsman, the hunt staff, and hounds always have full right-of-way. If the Huntsman needs to bring the pack of hounds back through the field, please give way, if possible by backing off the trail. Turn your horse’s head towards hounds or passing staff. This will prevent the hounds or Huntsman from being kicked. To help staff to pass on a trail, move off the trail, if possible, or move to the right side of the trail and keep moving. Assure that your horse sees them. Alert others with a “Staff, please.” The first flight has the right-of-way over the second and third flight.

Around Hounds

Do not speak to hounds. That is for staff alone. Don’t interfere with hounds unless asked to by staff. Don’t tailgate the hounds. If a hound is trying to get forward up through a moving field, keep moving but give him what room you can, and cock your horse’s head enough so that the horse can see the hound and not be surprised. Notify other riders of hounds’ presence on a trail with “Ware Hound - right/left.” You may drop your whip’s thong to keep hounds away from your horse’s legs. Any kicking is absolutely unacceptable behavior, but kicking a hound is an almost unforgivable offense. Punishment should be immediate and severe. If your horse kicks a hound, note which one it is so staff can check it for injury. Repetitions are grounds for exile.

Around Horses

Do not cut off other riders or ride on their heels. Try and rate your speed so as not to surprise someone behind you. A good rule of thumb is to keep your horse one to two lengths from the horse in front of you--one at a walk, four at a gallop. The greener the horse or rider, the further back in the field they should remain. Unruly or out-of-control horses should ride at the rear and may be sent home if they continue to be a problem. A horse known to kick is the rider’s responsibility. It should wear a red tail yarn or ribbon and should be kept out of the way, preferably toward the rear of the field. The ribbon is not an excuse or a license to kick. A kicked horse should be checked for injury. Kicking may be grounds for exile, as may be following too close and bumping into a horse causing it to kick. To “Reverse Field,” move off the trail to let the field turn around, ending up in the original order. On a narrow trail, if directed by the Field Master, do an about face, and move off in reverse of the original order until the Field Master gets things reorganized in an open area or reverses direction again. After a hazard, jump, or uncomfortable place, move on so the whole field can pass the problem area. Do not run into another horse’s rear to stop your horse. Brakes are most important, so bit your horse accordingly. Remember, it takes more to stop a horse in the hunt field than it does at home. If you can’t control your horse safely, stay at home. Don’t pass except in the open or unless invited to do so. If your horse has sniffles or flu, don’t bring it out. Keep your mouth closed when galloping through mud (unless you like mud).

Around Field Masters

The Field Master may have the best spot in the hunt field, but it is a difficult job. They are responsible for both the safety and pleasure of the field and thus are preoccupied with observing hounds and deciding where to place the field so as not to interfere with the Huntsman’s work, yet show off the sport to best advantage. The Field Master is charged with absolute power in the hunt field and may suspend the hunting privileges of individuals who jeopardize the safety and pleasure of the day’s hunting. Members of the field should not pass, ride ahead of, or interfere with the Field Master’s freedom or movement. Allow the Field Master to listen for hounds and horn, and give him the space to stop or turn abruptly. Do not pass the Field Master without good cause, either with permission or with an apology; and do not get between the Field Master and the Huntsman or hounds. Riding up with the Field Master is a privilege generally associated with seniority in the hunt field. As a rule, younger or newer members should always yield to more senior members. However, if the senior members can’t keep up and it is safe to do so you may pass them. Whatever happens, do not run into the Field Master’s horse’s rear to help stop your horse. Always let the Field Master know of any injuries, stragglers, or dropouts.

Around Other Riders

When riding in the field, one must be aware of the country being covered and the location of other riders, horses, and hounds. One needs to maintain a “safety area” around him while respecting other riders’ areas. “Give a man room to fall” is a wise old adage. You and your horse must be prepared and able to move on with dignity, to stop readily, and to stand quietly. Keep your voice down and your conversation short. When hounds are drawing cover or at a check, be quiet to minimize distraction. A continuously loud, raucous group of foxhunters will require the Field Master to keep the field far away from hounds. “Hark!” means “Quiet! Listen!” The field should stay together. The second flight should, as a group, stay with the designated Field Master. If you cannot keep up with the first flight, drop back to the second, after notifying the Field Master, and remain there. If you need to leave the hunt field early, ask permission from the Field Master. They will give you permission to leave when they think you are least likely to interfere with sport. Wandering riders may disrupt the hunting by getting lost, leaving gates open, or trespassing. Landowners do not appreciate this. If you see a fox, a conversational “Tally Ho” and tipping your hat or pointing your whip will give others a chance to view also. If asked by the Field Master, ride to the line of the fox, point your horse in the direction the coyote was going, and hold up your cap. A raised forearm means “Hold Hard.” Stop where you are and keep silent. Raise your own forearm, also, to signal others behind you. If you see a dangerous hole or wire, turn your head and say (don’t yell) “Ware Hole” or “Ware Wire” to the person behind you, and point to the hazard. This warming is passed back through the field as each rider approaches. At speed a louder voice may be appropriate.

Around Gates

When in doubt, close the gate. Leaving a gate open is one of the quickest ways to ruin our hunting. It simply cannot happen! We have a sacred duty to our landowners. Gates must always be closed unless the Field Master tells you to leave it open. The first person to the gate passes word back that the gate needs to be left open or closed. He does not move on until his message is acknowledged by someone following. The rider who accepts the message, in turn, may not move on until either the message is accepted by another, or until they personally close the gate. Never leave a gate without either passing word back and getting acknowledgement or closing it yourself. Never assume that others are coming on and will know to close it. Gate rules apply to bar-ways as well. If you find a barway with a rail lowered, assume that the top rail should be restored to its three-foot height. If the field is strung out, or the last riders may not hear, a hunt whip held up horizontally means “Gate, please!” It must be acknowledged, maybe by raising a hunt whip, which means, “I’ll get it!” One rider should stay with a gate-closer until they are comfortably remounted. If you’ve ever galloped off with only one stirrup, reins up by the horse’s ears, and the hunt whip hanging off your saddle, you’ll know why. If the field presses on, don’t watch the gate-closer; watch which way the field went. Do your share of opening gates (injury, inability, and sidesaddles excepted). If you ride with a non-jumping field, you’re going to have to open gates. If you’re up front, it’s probably your turn. Wait for the previous gate-closers to catch up. Not all gates can be handled while mounted, so give up quickly so as not to delay things unnecessarily. Basically, the dismounted gate procedure is as follows: speak out well ahead of time that you’ll get the gate, ride to the front, secure your whip, dismount, take the reins over your horse’s head, loop the reins over one arm as you’re working or hand the reins to another rider (mandatory at electrified fences), undo the wire, twine, and/or chain, check for which way the gate swings, lift the gate and open it as wide as practical, then lead your horse through and out of the way before the field passes through. After everyone has passed, make sure they’re not coming right back (it happens), and look to see if some staff member is galloping up to use the gate. Close the gate, secure the wire, twine and/or chain as you found it (livestock shouldn’t be able to knock it open), put the reins back over your horse’s head and remount. Your partner should stay still alongside until you’re ready to move off again with stirrups, reins, whip, and dignity intact. It is your partner’s responsibility to know where the field went. Now that you’ve done your duty, you can guiltlessly watch others get gates for a while, until your turn comes around again. At a gate with a jump nearby, the non-jumping field should stay clear until the first field has finished jumping. It is dangerous to open a gate while someone is approaching a jump. If two fields are at an open gate, the first field has priority; the second field has priority over the third, since they need to move on to keep in contact with the first field.

Around Jumps

Jumps have one use--to get you where you want to go more quickly that a gate or detour would. Do not jump until all hounds are clear. Leave enough room ahead to stop in case of a refusal or fall. If your horse refuses, move to the back of the line. If your horse quits at a jump a few times, if might behoove you to retire to the non-jumping field. Horses usually stop when they are tired (or just tired of their rider), sore, or scared--all of which are signs that you or your horse might get hurt if you continue to try to jump. If you get hurt, you will ruin your day as well as the people who will have to assist you. Schooling has a place in the hunt field and is acceptable when it does not interfere with the sport or the other riders. Larking (jumping unnecessarily) on the way home is discouraged unless approved by the Field Master. If someone is injured at a jump, or anytime, notify the Field Master. If someone falls, but is uninjured, the field may continue. One rider should stay behind (keeping an eye on which way the field went) until the faller is comfortably remounted. A loose horse should be caught using a calm entreaty, not by galloping after it and hollering. Damage to jumps must be fixed immediately, if possible, and reported to the Field Master, so the hunt can make permanent repairs. If the damage would allow livestock to escape, a jury-rig repair should be made immediately, or the offender must stay to guard the gap until help arrives.

On Private Property

Remember, we are guests, and we depend on the continued hospitality of generous landowners. We work hard to be able to hunt from anywhere to anywhere in our hunted country. That privilege does not come easily and must be honored and guarded, for once it is compromised the damage may never be repaired. There are no excuses. Gates must always be closed unless the Field Master tells you to leave it open. If you get separated from the field, try to find your way back to a main vantage point and wait. You may even need to return to the trailers. Do not roam around in areas you do not know. If hounds are approaching, stop and stay quiet. Assure all gates are closed. Damaged livestock fences should be repaired immediately, if possible. Notify the Master. Stay off crops, stay to the edge of planted or plowed fields, and stay off lawns. Don’t gallop near livestock. Do not clean out your trailer at the meet! Scoop up droppings on the host’s civilized areas. The hunt has permission to ride over land for a particular meet, but any other time you do not.

On Public Property

While we are blessed with access to public lands, please pay attention to the NDOW regulations and area closures. We share the land with outdoorsmen, hunters and recreational people. They have every right to be there. Close gates that were closed, be kind when meeting others out hunting, keep an eye out for hunters with bird dogs or shooters with targets. If we can do so safely, we will leave an area already occupied with other hunters and their choice of game. These are our neighbors and we need to respect them.

Pre-Hunt

Arrive at the meet at least 15 minutes early. Haste results in forgetting or misadjusting something. You must be ready to move off with the field. Assure your trailer is well clear of roads or driveways. Greet the Master and Staff with a “Good Morning,” not chat, as they’re probably busy. Double check girth, buckles, keepers, etc.

Post Hunt

After hounds are finished hunting, and the field is moving back to the trailers, do not lark unless the Field Master does. Remember to thank the hard-working Master, Field Master, Huntsman, and staff. We rotate the host of hunt breakfast - please sign up for three breakfast’s each season. When entering a house for a breakfast, wear a hacking jacket, remove your hat, spurs, and clean your boot soles. When you leave a meet at the end of the day, try to leave it like you found it—no trash, loose hay, or manure. It is bad manners to clean out your trailer in someone else’s field or parking lot.

Visitors are welcome, but they are expected to ask permission of a Master beforehand. SNH members may invite guests to cap with SNH during regular season meets. Call a Master for permission at least a day before the meet. Arrangements must also be made with the Honorary Secretary. Guests and visitors must sign a waiver and pay their capping fees by check (or by cash in an envelope with the capper’s name and address) to the Honorary Secretary before the field is ready to move off. Introduce your guests to the Master and Honorary Secretary before moving off. Members bringing guests are responsible for making sure they sign waivers, pay the cap, are correctly turned out, and are properly mounted. Unless invited by the Field Master to ride up front, members should stay with the guests, back a bit in the field. Capping fees may be applied to dues, if the individual applies for SNH membership.

A joint meet where SNH hounds participate is not considered visiting; it is a formal SNH meet.

Riding with another hunt, appreciating their hounds and territory and making hunt friends, is one of the great traditions of mounted foxhunting. Members are encouraged to visit other hunts by first contacting one of the SNH Masters with dates and name of the hunt they wish to visit. The Masters will then contact the other hunt’s Master and receive permission for the SNH member to attend. This is the proper procedure, and this is what the other Hunt’s Master will expect. Members are reminded that when visiting another hunt, both their dress and deportment are to be of the highest standards and properly represent SNH.

Ask the SNH Masters for guidance on the hunt country you wish to visit. Terrain, fences and customs vary within the Masters of Foxhounds Association of North America (MFHA) member hunts. The SNH Masters will be able to communicate your wishes and abilities to the host hunt.

If not hunting with SNH, do not wear SNH colors without the host Master’s invitation.

SNH recognises that social media can be a powerful tool for good or bad purposes. We encourage members to post about their own experiences and get the consent of others when posting to personal or business accounts. We recognise that there are people on the internet who find our sport to be offensive to themselves. While we are not responsible for their actions, we can be responsible for our own. Posting pictures of sensitive topics is not encouraged and should be cleared with the Masters prior to posting. Full names, location descriptions, and other identifying characteristics should be avoided unless you have specific permission from the individuals. Most social media questions can probably be answered by reading the MFHA’s guidebook to social media.

Opening Weekend and Blessing of the Hounds

Typically a long weekend of fun and hunting! Parties almost every night starting Thursday. The first official Formal Hunt starts on Sunday with a Blessing of the Hounds!

Newcomer’s Weekend

Held twice a year, this introduction to hunting weekend consists of Saturday lectures and riding assessments and a formal hunt on Sunday!

Halloween Hunt

Celebrated on the closest normal hunt day, enjoy dressing up your hunting attire with a riding-appropriate costume for you and/or your horse.

Thanksgiving Hunt

Day after Thanksgiving Hunt is a great day to get out and spread the joy by bringing your favorite left-over dish!

Christmas Hunt

Celebrated on the closest normal hunt day, sparkle up your hunting attire with subtle Christmas flair.

New Year’s Hunt

Celebrated on the closest normal hunt day, sparkle up your hunting attire with subtle bling.

St Patrick’s Day Hunt

Celebrated when hunting falls on March 17th. Wear something green, even if it’s a formal day.

Closing Weekend

Typically a long weekend, parties almost every night. Hunt Ball on Saturday and Sunday is the last official hunt of the season.

Joint Meets

The Masters will occasionally arrange with other hunts to have a day hunting their packs together. These are special hunts, a grand opportunity to see some of the best hounds in the West, to meet some of the most interesting Masters and Huntsmen in the sport, and to socialize with some of the most enthusiastic followers anywhere.

Bye Days

Because of the vagaries of weather and opportunity, the Masters may occasionally decide to hunt on a day not listed on the fixture card. The only way you’ll know about these hunts is to attend to the hunt communications regularly.

Hound Parades

We have a handful of prestigious horse shows that invite us to parade our hounds before they host their hunter derby classes. The Masters will issue open invites or invite only prior to each show where the hounds will be paraded. Horses and humans are expected to be horse show ready. Braided, bathed, and well behaved. Members are invited as ground crew to wrangle hounds on the show grounds or serve a stirrup cup to spectators.

Pony Club Hunt Days

In partnership with USPC, we are facilitating the Foxhunting Recognition Program. This is a two day program to introduce riders to foxhunting. Each Pony Club member hunts accompanied by a dedicated rider (Ambassador). Manners and etiquette will be emphasized at these events. These hunt days do not allow alcohol until the hunting has been completed.

Hunter Paces

We try to host a hunter pace once a year. Usually in Fall or during Opening Weekend. The idea is to complete a flagged course on a given optimum time which is supposed to mimic the Field’s day of hunting following the Huntsman.

Hunt Country Work Parties

The building of jumps and gates is done by summertime work parties usually headed by an experienced foreman and a number of willing, unwilling, clueless, toolless, and sweaty members. Even though we never seem to have the right tools, equipment, or experience--but plenty of opinions--the job always seems to get done with good results, good humor, and good fellowship. And it’s always fun to jump a coop that you helped to build! Remember, nobody cares about a few bent nails in a coop or an ugly gate when it’s located between themselves and the hounds, but everybody cares when there’s no way through a fence line and hounds are in full cry.

Christmas Party

The Landowner’s Christmas Party is an open invite to all our neighbors and supporters. The hunt hosts and the members are encouraged to mingle and share the love.

Hunt Ball

This formal soiree is the height of the social season when ladies in evening gowns and gentlemen in scarlet tails and tuxedos party the night away with friends and guests while enjoying dining, dancing, and good fellowship.

Hound Walking

In order to develop an integrated, obedient hunt pack of hounds, puppies need to be brought into the pack with enthusiasm, care, and discipline. Older hounds as well as puppies need regular, moderate exercise to build their endurance, toughen their feet, and reinforce their training. Therefore, during spring and summer, the Huntsman and two or more Whippers-In and helpers (here’s your chance) take hounds out for exercise. This begins with relatively short walks (people on foot) with puppies coupled to older hounds until they learn what’s going on, accept the Huntsman’s authority, and can be trusted to stay with the pack. As the summer progresses, the exercise includes longer distances. In the late summer the staff goes out mounted, and the distances become greater, all the time the Huntsman is evaluating the behavior and potential of the puppies. If you want to get into a hound’s head (a cramped and dim place), and if you want to learn about what the Huntsman is trying to do with them, this is the time and place to do it. Exercising hounds is highly addictive, and it’s one of the best reasons in the world for getting up early in the morning.

Trail Rides

Mentioned previously, the summer trail rides are another great way to school a horse, introduce a green horse to the hunt field, try out a prospect, learn group riding etiquette, and learn your way around the country.

Pony Express

We have been supporting our state division of the National Pony Express Re-Ride Association officially since 2022. The Nevada Pony Express (NPEA) is always looking for riders and Ride Captains. NPEA is responsible for covering 417 miles across the state in about 3 days. We usually have a group that heads out to camp along the route. Riders take sections of varying mileage from 2 miles to 20 miles depending on the individual and frequently riders ride more than once.

Account for - To put a coyote to ground.

Autumn Hunting - early foxhunting season.

Away -The coyote is in the open and/or hounds are on the line.

Babble - when a hound gives tongue for anything other than a good coyote scent.

Babbler - an unnecessarily noisy hound.

Band - group of coyote

Barway - a fence section with sliding horizontal poles which can be jumped by the first flight or taken down for hilltoppers or tractors.

Billet - coyote droppings, scat.

Bitch - female hound.

Blank day - no scent day or failure to find a coyote all day is to have a blank day.

Blind Country - terrain so overgrown that jumps and footing can’t be gauged.

Blue Ticked Hound - coloring- mostly white with dapples of black for a blue appearance.

Boo Hoo - when a hound is lost or frustrated and sings out.

Brace - two game animals.

Breakfast - meal served by a host after a hunt, either buffet or sit- down; for an informal breakfast, you should bring a beverage.

Burst - hounds get away quickly on the fox, or a fast part of the run.

Button - The hunt button is on a black or brass (silver for women) button with the hunt’s distinctive logo engraved on it, worn only at the invitation of the Master.

Bye Day - An additional hunting day not on the fixture card.

Cap - capping fee paid by non-members to ride with the field, also a rider’s hard hat.

Car Followers - those who follow the hunt in vehicles.

Cast - when hounds search for a line; the huntsman may take charge of the pack and help them, or hounds may cast themselves.

Catch Hold - to collect hounds and take them forward at a check or to a holloa.

Coffee Housing - distracting field chit-chat while others are listening for hounds.

Challenges It - when a hound first speaks to a line.

Charles - respectful name for the fox, also Charlie, gentleman Charles, Charles James, the old gentleman, Reynard, varmint, Uncle Remus.

Check - hounds temporarily lose the line on a run, followers stay quiet.

Cheer - Huntsman’s encouragement to hounds.

Cold Line - Faint scent due to time or condition.

Colors - Distinctive hunt livery worn by members at the invitation of the Master.

Coop or Chicken coop - an inviting 3-foot high or more A-frame roof- like jump.

Counter - Hounds on the line, but going in the opposite direction, also heel line.

Country - the hunt’s general territory as registered with the MFHA.

Couple - Two hounds; hounds are numbered in couples, since it is easier to count them quickly in twos; also to attach two hounds together with couples.

Couples - A short connector between two collars, so a puppy can be paired with an experienced hound for training.

Covered Line - Line that an earlier hound has hunted and, therefore interfered with.

Covert (cover) - Woods or dense growth where a coyote may be found.

Crop - the stick part of a hunting whip, not the whole assembly.

Cry - Sound of hounds speaking on a line, also voice, tongue, music.

Cub - Young coyote born that past spring.

Cur Dog - Canine not from the pack.

Dew Claw - False toe/claw on a hound’s forelegs.

Dog - Male hound, male fox, any non-hound canine.

Double Back - When a coyote returns to the covert it left.

Draft - To remove hounds from a kennel or pack.

Draw a Covert - Put hounds into a covert to find a fox.

Draw Blank - An unsuccessful draw.

Drive - The urge of hounds to go forward.

Dwell - The tendency of a hound to hunt without going forward, lack of drive.

Earth - Where a coyote goes to ground for safety, usually a den.

Enter - To use a hound regularly for hunting.

Entered Hound - A hunting member of the pack.

Entry Hounds - to be entered this season.

Eye to Hounds - By watching hounds and listening, to be able to tell what the coyote has gone and about what they are going to do

Feathering - A hound indicates, other that by giving tongue, that it’s hunting a line; a waving stern; uncertain.

Field - Mounted followers other than the Master and staff, usually divided into two or more fields--first flight, non- jumpers, hilltop pers, foot followers.

Field Master - Individual in charge of mounted followers.

Honorary Secretary - Individual who collects capping fees from non-members.

Find - When hounds first detect a fox’s scent

First Flight Riders - who plan to jump everything necessary and to stay close to the action.

Fixture - Time and place of a meet, also a regular location for a meet.

Fixture Card - Card sent to members and individuals invited to hunt, listing dates, places, and times of meets.

Full Cry - Sound of many hounds.

Give Tongue - When a hound cries out or speaks.

Gone Away - coyote has left a cover, the chase is on.

Go to Ground - When the coyote escapes into earth.

Halloo (holler) - Huntsman’s or staff’s holler that the coyote was viewed, also Holloa, View Halloo.

Head a Fox - To turn a fox from its own route, bad result of riders away from the field.

Heads Up - Hounds raise their heads and lose the scent, pick their own routes.

Heel Line - Hounds on the line, but going in the opposite direction.

Hilltoppers - Riders who do not plan to jump, but move at a walk or trot to strategic viewing points.

Honest Hound - Trustworthy, dependable hound.

Honor the Line - A hound gives tongue on a line which another hound was hunting.

Hound - Canine used for hunting by scent.

Hound Exercise - Taking hounds and puppies for a walk to give them exercise and to train the puppies to the pack

Hound Music - The sound made when hounds are in full cry.

Hunting Whip - The complete assembly of crop (the stick), throng (braided part), and lash (popper/cracker) used for controlling hound.

Huntsman - Individual who hunts the hounds.

Joint Masters - Two or more Masters who share responsibilities for hunt operations in one hunting club.

Kit - Young fox, cub or pup.

Larking - Jumping fences unnecessarily when hounds are not running.

Lead Hound - The hound up front while the pack is on the line.

Lift - To pick hounds up while hunting and move them forward on the line.

Line - Fox’s scent trail, his route across the ground.

Line Breeding - Offspring from parents having common ancestry.

Livery - Attire of the professional staff, usually particular to a hunt.

Manners - Deportment of hounds, horses and members of the hunt field.

Mark to Ground - Hounds indicate that a coyote has gone to ground by giving tongue and digging (worrying) at an earth.

Master - Master of Foxhounds, MFH- individual in charge of hunt operations in field and kennels.

Meet - Assembling of a hunt on a given day.

MFH - Master of Foxhounds. see Master MFHA Masters of Fox hounds Association, foxhunting’s governing body.

Old Fashioned - Early version of the Point-to-Point races where only the start and finish were defined.

Open - A hound first gives tongue on a line.

Out Cross - Infusion of new blood in line breeding.

Override - To press hounds too closely, especially at a check, also to get in front of a Field Master during a run (both are bad manners).

Overrun Hounds - shoot past a change in the line of scent.

Own the Line - A hound speaks to or honors a line.

Pack - All the hounds owned by the hunt, also a group of hounds taken to hunt on a given day.

Pup - Young coyote

Puppy Walking - Taking a young puppy to raise for the summer to civilize it until it’s returned to the kennels for pack training.

Ratcatcher - Informal hunting attire.

Recover - to pick up the scent line after a check.

Refuse - a Horse stopping in front of a jump.

Ringing Fox - One which runs in a circle never very far from where it was found, a ringer.

Riot - When hounds chase anything they shouldn’t.

Riotous - Undisciplined hounds which persist in riot.

Rising Scent - When scenting is poor at ground level but scent is detectable at riders’ height.

Run - The time when hounds are actively hunting a line, from the time they open until they lose it for good.

Scarlet - Proper term for the color of a red coat.

Scenting - The ability of hounds to follow a scent trail on a given day as a function of weather--moisture, temperature, wind, etc. (sep arate from nose, the skill of the hounds themselves).

Sculk - A group of foxes.

Soft Mouth - A low-voiced, bell-toned hound.

Speak - To give tongue when on the scent.

Spotty - When scenting is uneven.

Staff - Huntsman, Whippers-In, Kennelman; paid is professional; unpaid is honorary.

Stained A line - fouled by other animals.

Stale Line - Weak scent line due to elapsed time.

Staying Power - Stamina or endurance.

Steady - A hound that is not flighty or flashy, also a huntsman steadies his hounds when they are uncertain.

Stern - A hound’s tail.

Stick Ability - the gameness of a hound.

Stirrup Cup - Libation served to mounted followers before they move off.

Stop Hounds - Staff calls off hounds going into impassable or forbidden territory or onto a highway using voice or whip.

Strike To - find the scent of a coyote.

Strike Hound - Hound that found the scent first.

Stud Book - Record of names, dates of entry, and breeding records of all hounds in the pack.

Tag - White tip at the end of a red fox’s brush.

Tailgate - Informal snacks after the hunt.

Tail Hounds - Hounds running at the back of a pack.

Tally Ho - A coyote has been viewed, see signals in the field.

Timber - A jumpable obstacle made of wood.

Thong - The braided part of a hunting whip.

Thruster - Thoughtless, nuisance rider who larks and overrides hounds, other riders, or the Field Master.

Trail Clearing - When new trails are hacked or old trails improved during the off season.

Trail Ride - An off-season social fundraiser where members, guests, and visitors can ride through hunt country.

Uniform - Attire for members in the field.

View - To see (or sight of) the coyote, making sure that it is the coyote.

Voice - See cry.

Vixen - Female Fox.

Walk At - Puppies are sent to farms to be raised at liberty and broken off chasing farm animals, then returned to the pack.

Whelp - A young puppy, also giving birth to a puppy.

Whip-In To - act as a Whipper-In Whipper-In Staff who assist the Huntsman with hounds, usually going out ahead to watch for coyote going away or to keep hounds off a highway.

Whoopie Wagon - Vehicle with un-mounted followers and refreshments aboard. Carries water for the hounds.

Work a Line - Search for the scent and follow it along the fox’s track.

Young Entry - Young hounds and young riders hunting for the first time.

Commands in the Field

Gate, Please! - Close this gate after the field passes.

Hark! - Quiet down and listen.

Hold Hard! - Stop immediately for hounds, fall hazard, scent line, etc.

Reverse Field - The field must turn to go the opposite direction; on a narrow trail the original order of riders is not preserved.

Staff, Please! - Make way for a staff member.

Tally-Ho! - An alert to the other followers or the Huntsman that you have viewed the coyote; point to help others find it. If the coyote is close, keep your voice down.

Ware! Beware! - Alert used with hound, wire, hole, low-bridge, bees, deer, hare, riot, etc.

Staff Commands to Hounds

Pack Up - General command to bring the pack together around the Huntsman.

Get to Her - Get to the Huntsman quickly.

Get Behind - Get behind the Huntsman typically used when packing up.

Leave It - Quit what you’re doing.

Kennel - Go into the kennel.

Pack Over - Encouragement to the pack of hounds to move to the side of a road.

Hike to Her - Encouragement to a hound to go to the sound of the action.

Hold Up - Stop here, take a break with the pack.

Load Up - Get into the trailer.

Try Back - Turn around and hunt back to the Huntsman.

Look in Here - Put your noses down and search for scent.

Riding to Hounds in America: An Introduction for Foxhunters by William P. Wadsworth, MFH

American Foxhunting Stories by Alexander Mackay Smith, MFH

Whipper In by Lt.Colonel Dennis J. Foster

Foxhunting in North America by Alexander Mackay-Smith, MFH

Advice on Foxhunting by Willoughby De Broke

The Book of the Foxhound by Daphne Moore

Hounds and Hunting Throughout the Ages by Joseph B. Thomas, MFH

Hunting Hounds by David M. Duffey